24th September, 1943: Algerian Coast

Having put in an early call, we were astonished when we all woke up at a late hour. Something was wrong. After a breakfast of eggs, a meal which we all tackled with gusto - we went to see what was wrong. There had been no mistake - we were to take off later.

Soon, we were up in a clear cloudless sky. A white city on the coast looked like a beautiful gem set in this vast expanse of sand. The belt of green which we crossed soon vanished. Stretching as far as eye could see - nothing but brown sand remained in sight. This was not a country of soft sand dunes as I had imagined the desert to be, but a region of cruel craggy mountains - brown, grey and barren.

In Scotland, we had blessed all the little sunshine we got at this time of the year, here was a land that would bless any rain it might get. Occasionally we passed over an Arab village, what appeared to be, but a closely built cluster of sandstone houses. The only shade in that sun-baked region would be that afforded by the buildings - perhaps the only reason why the streets were so narrow.

The coast at last, the deep rich blue of the Mediterranean, what a contrast, what beauty after the miles of "Scorched Earth". We landed at a place near the coast, & were taken to our billets by bus. We became acquainted with Algiers money for the first time. The only money I saw was paper money, Algerian and Moroccan - two hundred francs = £1 pound.

The place was not bad, but the billets were. They had no place for us, so we lay on the floor between other beds in a large tent. We made our own beds, merely by putting our blankets on the floor, and easily made. That was all that could be said in defence of such sleeping billets and went out to find Mac. Mac had been a grand pal at Port Ellen, and we spent some time this evening talking over our old adventures - if the tameness of life on a Western Island can be called adventures. At the mess, I had some Madeira Wine, quite a good wine, but lack of local currency kept me off.

Lights were being put out, sleep was falling upon the camp - so we decided to call it a day.

23rd September, 1943: Cornwall to Africa

23.09.1943

Up early, what I might have considered at one time to be an unearthly hour. At 3:45 a.m., we went in for breakfast – but my appetite was not at its best at this early hour.

Climbing into the aircraft, I knew that I had stepped off English soil. We flew into a peaceful English autumnal sky – very little cloud in the sky. Cornwall soon became a mere thin line on the horizon – ahead of us nothing but sea and sky. Very soon England sank into the sea and a vast expanse of water stretched to the sky in all directions. As we flew south, the clouds increased until we were finally faced with high piling claw-like mountain ranges – their peaks move up. Like a small lone bird, small and fragile, we were tossed about, at first lifted up, then dropped again, by a treacherous sky.

At last, land – like a huge map, unfolded itself before us thro’ a break in the clouds. This was not England, even from the air it looked foreign and new. Little hamlets and larger towns came into view, the monotonous brown houses of English towns became the coloured houses of another country in a period of a few hours. My imagination ran riot, I could see these olive skinned, gaily dressed people gathered round in groups, singing songs of love and battle to the strains of a guitar.


Like England, this land soon sank into the sea. Once more, sky and water surrounded us on all sides. But soon, a stretch of golden sand appeared above the sea ahead of us. This thrill soon turned into wonder and later into disappointment, the sand was not the sandy coast we were used to, but it stretched inland. We were in a land of sand – the monotony of the gold and brown occasionally broken by small patches of greenery. We landed and once more our feet were on firm soil. Were we really in Africa after such a short period in the air? The coolness of the English autumn had gone, we stood on the desert sands under the heat of a merciless sun.


Grasshoppers chirped – and jumped around. The grasshoppers, three or four inches long seemed awesome in size to one who had seen them only an inch long. The birds were different, and seemed to be having a grand time feeding upon all kinds of strange insects which hovered around in this sparse station.

Natives were busy working, but worked slowly, tho’ just to move around was an effort. Had I not felt so hot, I might have thought they were making the work last out to prevent them having to fall back upon the scanty living offered by some unemployment benefit. Thoughts of the homeland were still fresh in my mind. Thieving is considered an honourable profession by these Arab-come French Moroccans (Wogs) – so we brought everything movable with us.

These natives roamed all over the place – but we were told they were men at work. One old fellow, gaunt and lean of figure, seemed to have a great problem on his mind. With his hands tightly clasped behind his back, his head forward, (chin well in his collar so to speak), he paced the floor for one solid hour. We left the scene before his pacing had stopped.

We were taken to our billets – like bathing chalets - & with the sand outside it was like being on a beach back home, without the sea being there. We were hungry, and food seemed to be all that mattered to us then. We were told by the natives that ??? o’ clock was dinner time, and that we had to wait until then. We did not intend to do that if we could possibly help it. We tackled an R.A.F. fellow, & a few tins of food soon appeared. My appetite soon vanished, not because my hunger had been satisfied; vegetables of indescribable taste, the unpleasantness of which had conquered those pangs. White bread – most pleasant change – was a blessing and we made a meal of dry white bread.

We prepared for leaving early the next morning, and had another meal, better than the last one. The sweet potato which I had heard of disappointed me – I did not like it.

22nd September, 1943: Cornwall

22.09.1943

We were up early for briefing – hoping that the rest of the day would be ours. This was put off until evening, so we spent the afternoon at Redruth – riding in a lorry with the R.A.F. football team. It seemed strange – yesterday we heard the broad Scottish accent on all sides, and in a night, so it seemed, this had changed into a Cornish accent.

With all the knowledge that this was our last day in Britain for some time to come, we did a little shopping. The eating apples, the first fruit I had seen for over a month, were delicious. We hitch-hiked back to camp that afternoon, and the rest of the evening I spent at the mess.

21st September 1943: Islay to Cornwall

21.09.1943

Port Ellen on the Western Isles of Scotland and the sun shining! To one who has visited this district, the unusual phenomena is so obvious.
Last night, I walked up the hill behind the mess – and looking seawards, a cloudless sky stretched out to meet that moonlit wall of water. There was no sign of a break in the weather, nothing that might indicate a longer stay on this island. Islay had nothing but desolate waste to offer, the loneliness of the island is its beauty. Here, one could live a spiritual life – no wordly pleasures thrust in upon one’s dreams. After a moment at this lovely spot, I still had a sad feeling at having to part from it all.

We packed our luggage into the kite this morning, and during the afternoon flew into a cloudless sky. Approaching North Wales coast, I picked out the broken skyline so familiar to me, I guided Lofty over our village.

It was the first time I had ever flown over my home, but it was over much too soon. This beautiful little village came up and immediately was lost behind.

We arrived at Portreath late that afternoon, and I was surprised and delighted to run into Bobby Burns – one of the best pals I ever had. It brought back so many happy memories - and we both re-lived some of those times over again. The evening passed all too quickly.