1st October, 1943: Alexandria sightseeing

We had no flies to bother us, but we were up at nine. We washed and ordered breakfast. Rather disappointing really, the same dish as list night's supper. It proved to be the only dish cooked at the hotel.

We were soon out in the sun lit streets to see the shops. Things were a little cheaper out here, but very expensive for all that. We spent about an hour at the services stores from where Eddy and Loftie sent parcels home. We lunched at the Y.M.C.A. canteen, where Egyptian natives waited at tables. They were very concerned to please all, whether out of a sense of duty, or out of a hope that they might be awarded with a tip, I could never really fathom. Tipping was forbidden. Although this is discouraged, these waiters sometimes hung around hoping one's soft spot might be touched. In my case, it was not because the outer hard shell was not pierced by their attempts to please, but because I realized that my money would not last out the period of my leave that made me refrain.

After lunch we went on the tour organised by the Y.M.C.A. Firstly we visited Pompey's Pillar, built on a hill overlooking the city. I was far more impressed with the city's need for slum clearance and reconstruction than with anything the man said about the pillar in question. Many buildings were only half built and left in that state, or they had started to fall and the lower stories had, for some unfathomable reason, remained standing. As we passed down the streets it is hard to know what the people thought of us - they yelled and shouted at the bus as we passed them.

We then visited the catacombs, a really marvellous underground building of three floors. Many rooms, passages, staircases, ornaments and relics for ceremonial rites had been hewn out of this solid rock. In one room, near the catacombs, a stone table with stone chairs around it for a funeral feast. The cool air down below was astonishing - as though the place was well-ventilated. This was hardly so, the temperature here is much cooler than the temperature up above.

From the catacombs, we went to Alexandria Zoo, a poor effort, I saw more animals in the zoo at Blackpool Tower. The zoo offered me a greater variety of interest in the people who were there. It packed with people out to enjoy an Egyptian holiday - a holiday equivalent to the British Christmas festivities, but owing to climate differences, had to be celebrated differently.

We missed the bus back and took a taxi, quite a good effort for the fare charged. After a light snack, we went to see "Commandos Strike at Dawn" at the "Rio" cinema.

The talkies are in English, but translations in French and Egyptian for the benefit of those who do not understand English. Next to me sat a young Egyptian woman, fanning herself vigorously, and in her attempt, also cooled me. I imagine I caught her slipstream.

We walked home with the words "You sleep with Bint tonight Sgt.?" in our ears, coming from many doorways in Frand St. We arrived at the hotel feeling quite hungry, and ordered a 'Joes's Special'. (Joe being our name for the servant, and the special being the same dish). After eggs, chips, tomato, tea and bread and butter, we had nothing to do.

When I came to go to bed, I realized that Joe had changed the bed for me, and that I might sleep without having to do acrobatics to get out of it in the morning. My sleep was not marred by having to climb out of the hole in night.