11th October, 1943: Habbaniyah stop-over

We had not been troubled by flies, a mosquito net kept all unwelcome visitors away. Although we were very ill equipped for navigational purposes, we were told to go on and map read our way. On our way again, and the little greenery soon fell away, we were soon flying over barren mountains and hills - not many miles north of Jerusalem. We could not see the city, the visibility was not good enough. 

The "River Jordan" was very narrow, probably due to the dry season, and I was disappointed. The valley showed indications of a much wider river, probably the river was much wider at certain times of the year. The green belt of vegetation on either side was almost negligible, where we crossed the river, about twenty miles north of Jerusalem, the whole valley was hardly a quarter of a mile wide - the river only about twenty feet, but distances are rather deceptive from the air. 

The land around was mountainous, rocky, dusty and barren. I now realise why the washing of feet is so often mentioned by Christ. This would be as common in such a land, as eating and drinking. I understand more than previously how lonely Christ felt up in the mountains. No other soul would be around, and here hew would feel that God alone was near him. To come to the River Jordan to be baptised would be almost natural, it is the only river in the district, and the people of this part of Palestine must have lived near the banks of this river. The mountains on either side showed no signs of life. This may be rather misleading - parts of Palestine, I understand, are like parts of England - green pastures, rich and fertile. I did not see this, but I saw a little and understand more from the little I have seen. Like every country one cannot judge the whole by a small section. 

We had soon passed out of Palestine, the maps were the only indication - because the land was one vast desert. The country beyond - Syria and Iraq - is just one vast expanse of endless barren land. The only signs of life around were the few vehicles that passed along the road that we followed. Occasionally, we passed a small town or village - but nothing worthy of note. 

At last, the Euphrates came into view - a broad sluggish river winding through this great field of sand. For some reason, no vegetation grew on the banks - due probably to poor soil - or some mineral in the water. It looked like sea water left between sand banks when the tide is at its ebb. On our right, Habbaniyah Lake - and strange enough this had no vegetation on its banks. It made the desert more barren than ever. One expects barren land where no water is found, but where water is plentiful it seems so strange and unexpected. The Tigris valley, so I am told by an R.A.F. friend whose home is in Baghdad, is a fertile green valley. The Euphrates for at least twenty or more miles shows nothing, not even an occasional palm tree.

We landed at Habbaniyah, in the desert, at mid-day. The sun was blistering and the whiteness of the sand hurt my eyes. Everything was almost at a stand-still, the trees, the few in Camp seemed thirsty and dust-laden. Everything, living and otherwise seemed to feel that terrific heat. We swung our compasses in this heat, a hellish job, but it was necessary. 

We found the mess to be a real haven, a beautiful place, with plenty of good food. Here again we had native waiters, but unlike all other waiters I had seen - anywhere, they worked like men who might be paid at daywork rate. They rushed around and seemed to be unable to work fast enough. Never had I seen waiters getting on with the job as they did. Plates seemed to appear from no-where, just as conjurors bring balls or cards from thin air, the men did so with plates. Dinner, a four course meal, was a state banquet compared with what we had at Sali[sbury]. 

The little remaining money I had, about six shillings worth, I had changed into Indian money. Mosquitos seemed to flourish in this neighbourhood, and they could be seein in huge clouds around the lights hanging outside the mess. It was a glorious evening, but even the beauty of the evening was not attractive enough to tempt me to become a meal for these annoying pests. Nets were a real necessity. 

That evening we lay on our beds for a while but as we had to be up early again, there was no reason to be staying up late. One had to book early for the cinema, something we had not done. We turned in, knowing that sleep is necessary and that another day's flying lay ahead of us.