26th October, 1943: The Indian streets

"William Bananas" and "Camel Ghoolies" were later than usual this morning, but we knew that "Take It Easy Kid" would be round soon as usual. Some fruit and a cup of "char" about eleven o'clock was most welcome and it was becoming a regular habit. Although we knew we were getting into bad habits, and spoiling ourselves for a later time, but we loved doing it. "Let us have a good time while we can" seems to be a motto we live up to. 

 We played sato [?] for a while, but on a hot summer's afternoon it needs too much effort. To play it back at home on a winter's night, with a big fire roaring is vastly different. Bill Gibson and Loftie remained in camp that evening, but Joe and I walked down the narrow streets we had seen last night. Nessin would have loved to have been with us, but he had gone by this time. In these narrow streets we found the native shops. On either side of these narrow streets, shoe and sandal makers, boot repairers, painters, metal workers, bicycle repairers are busy in their tiny workshops. They take no notice of passers-by, they are too busy and engrossed in their own work to be interested in what is happening around them. The shopkeepers, standing or sitting at the doors of their little shops, all packed with merchandise, press their goods upon any likely customers who may pass down the street. 

"Very nice combs, Sergeant", or "Very good razor, Sahib" as though to be informed of these facts made it necessary that we should buy one. These streets are filthy, cows roam around, lie down in the streets or across the curb, dogs and cats run around, a few camels, donkeys used as beasts of burden, all add to the filth and the smell that in some places screams to the heavens. Children played around, some of them stopped to look at us, but the majority went on with their games. The smell of fruit, urine, spices, animals, cereals, decaying vegetables, scent, all mixed, the concentration of each varying as we approached or drew away from its source, was not too pleasing. Some of the animals and and some districts could have done with a disinfectant or de-odourant of some sort. The Indians who live in such districts are either so used to it that they take no notice, or they lack the keen sense of smell that we have. 

We roamed around idly, not buying anything but just keeping our eyes open. In some places, the pavements were littered with huge stacks of pottery of all shapes and sizes. I did not feel in the mood to be pestered to buy any, which I had no use for, so did not stay gazing for too long at the wares. These people can almost bargain one into buying anything. I did not intend this to happen. We returned to the main street and went to the Chinese restaurant for supper. After a good supper, we walked slowly back towards camp. 

I was now convinced that I would learn much more about the Indians and their ways of living by walking around the smaller streets. This is where most of them are found. This is where their shops and cafes, their stalls and workshops are. With this firm conviction, I was going to see as much of India as I could through its people.